The Union Canal in Scotland runs 31 miles from Edinburgh to the famous Falkirk Wheel boat lift, which connects the Union canal to the Forth & Clyde Canal. One thing that makes the Union Canal very different to the Forth & Clyde, and for that matter many canals in the UK, is that it is a “contour canal”. It follows the contour line along the side of the Forth (and the railway) so there are no locks or bridges to operate, other than the two locks located just above the Falkirk Wheel which are operated by Scottish Canals staff.

Also, unlike canals in England and Wales, where you mostly have to operate the locks yourself, in Scotland all locks and bridges are operated by Scottish Canals staff.

This makes the Union Canal very suitable for first-timers.

The downside of such a system, is that on a canal like the neighbouring Forth & Clyde Canal with its 39 locks, you have to co-ordinate your arrival times with Scottish Canals in advance.

What are the highlights of the Union Canal?

Well, it has some pretty impressive pieces of engineering along its length, including the Falkirk Wheel boat lift, the longest canal tunnel in Scotland (takes 12 mins to pass through), and three elegant 19th century aqueducts to pass over – See Industrial Heritage on the Union Canal, and how to explore it

In addition there are some picturesque towns to stop in, such as Linlithgow with its royal palace (birthplace of Mary, Queen of Scots), and Ratho where the Bridge Inn is perfect for a lunch or dinner stop.

And the canal route itself varies from dramatic views out over the Firth of Forth from up on the 240ft contour, to tranquil waters deep in the woods.

One highlight is not on the Union Canal at all.

From the Falkirk Wheel Interchange, the Forth & Clyde Canal continues north-eastward for a few miles to the River Carron and access into the Firth of Forth. Here stand the famous Kelpies. The 30-metre-high horse-head sculptures by Andy Scott are mythical shape-shifting beasts based on the lineage of the heavy horses of Scottish industry, pulling the barges, ships, wagons and ploughs of the region. Their proximity (a 12 min drive) to the Falkirk Wheel means they can easily be added to a visit.

How does self-drive narrowboating work?

If you haven’t done it before, it may seem daunting. But once you get the hang of it, you’ll be hooked.

Firstly, choosing your boat. Smaller is cheaper and usually easier to handle. However, if you can afford it, try to go for a boat with enough permanent beds for your party. If one of your beds doubles as the lounge table, it means that somebody has to wait for everyone else to go to bed before they can start making their bed up. Always a pain!

The basics are the same as renting a holiday home. All the bed linen, kitchen utensils, cleaning products, etc, are provided. You need to bring your food and drink. Don’t overdo it narrowboat fridges are not as big as domestic ones and there may not be a freezer. Narrowboat companies will supply a list of what’s onboard, so you can check if you need to bring your hair dryer or portable speaker.

If you are booking a short break, try to arrive at the narrowboat base as soon as possible. The sooner you get there, get on board, and complete the induction/training session, the more holiday time you’ll have on day one. This especially important in the spring and autumn when there is less daylight. You can’t navigate after dark.

All boat operators will give an induction session before you set off.

This is where they take you and your crew through the whole boat explaining how everything works; how the toilets and showers work, how the water and electricity systems work, how to turn the gas bottles on and off, how to moor up, how to operate the engine, how to clear the propeller of weeds, etc.

In particular they’ll teach your designated skipper, how to do daily checks; how to check oil and water levels in the engine, how to grease the stern gland (where the propeller shaft goes through the hull into the water), how to check the bilge is clear of water, etc, etc… and they will check the skipper’s manoeuvring skills and/or give training on boat handling.

The induction/handover should meet the British Marine Federation accredited standards (they get audited). 

Once they’re happy and you are happy, you’re on your way.

If you are not used to boating, this is probably your most anxious time, but remember: take it easy -take it slow – take your time. That’s not hard in a narrowboat that can barely reach 4 knots max, but the quicker you go into a situation – a lock or mooring, turning around or meeting another boat – the quicker things can go wrong. I’ve spent years as a qualified offshore skipper, and yet I’ve embarrassed myself more than once in a narrowboat. Everyone does… I mean it, everyone does!

Tip: If you can, try to get at least one of your crew comfortable with helming the boat, otherwise you will spend your entire journey stuck on the tiller.

And remember the Golden Rule of Canal Boating: Be nice to other boats because you are almost bound to meet them at the next lock, and the next, and the next, and the next, etc! (Doesn’t apply on the lockless Union Canal, but it’s still a good rule to go by) And even if you are travelling in opposite directions, the chances are, you’ll meet them on the way back!

Narrowboating on the Union Canal

We were touring the Union Canal in a Black Prince Holidays 62ft Signature 6 (sleeps 4-6). Black Prince design and build their own narrowboats, and the Signature class is their latest model. It comes with all ‘mod cons’ – a microwave in the kitchen, central heating, multiple USB sockets, wireless charging pads, a flat-screen TV, and colour mood LED lighting – and was introduced into their fleet in 2023. I was enjoying it for free as a press review.

The rental charge includes…

The boat and its full inventory, gas & water, and Damage Waiver Scheme to cover you against damage, loss or accident to your boat or its inventory.

Extras include…

• Fuel. Renters need to pay a deposit against the diesel they use, which is measured on return. The average cost used to be around £15 daily in 2020, but using today’s diesel prices, you can estimate the cost based on using between between 1.2-1.7 litres per hour.
• A Scottish Canals Rover License fee of £25 for any holiday over three nights, or £15 for up to three days.

Other Boating Options

Black Prince are not the only self-drive boating company on the Union Canal…

• ABC Boat Hire also hire self-drive narrowboats for the Union Canal and Forth & Clyde Canal, from their base at the Falkirk Wheel.
• Marine Cruises have a number of self-drive boats based at the Falkirk Wheel for cruises on the Union and Forth & Clyde canals.
• Go Forth & Clyde has a slightly different self-drive option. Their boat ‘Jaggy Thistle’ can be rented for day trips only.

Other skippered canal experiences are offered by…

• Re-Union Canal Boats operate skippered day cruises from Edinburgh.
• Seagull Trust operate free day trips for disabled travellers.
• Linlithgow Canal Centre operates local day trips, visiting, for example, the Falkirk Wheel and the Avon Aqueduct.