Review: The Spy Museum, Berlin

Given Berlin’s Cold War role as the “capital of spies”, it seems only fitting that it should now host the only museum in Germany dedicated to the dark world of espionage.

The surprise is that it has taken this long. The Spy Museum, located in Potsdamer Platz, right in the centre of the East-West standoff, only opened in September 2015.

Cryptex on display
Da Vinci Code ‘Cryptex’

The museum’s 3,000 m2 (32,000 sq ft) exhibition space contains numerous rare exhibits, as well as some meticulously reproduced replicas (such as an exquisitely detailed ‘cryptex’ from the movie, The Da Vinci Code) which are all presented using high-tech touchscreen displays to explain what they are and how they were used.

Pocket Cryptographer
Pocket cryptographer Type CD-67 made by Hagelin-Cryptos, Switzerland

The path through the museum takes the visitor through the history of espionage from the birth of intelligence gathering in ancient times, to the political spymasters of the Middle Ages, the growth of the secret services and military reconnaissance during World War I & II, and ending with the likes of Assange & Snowden and current the debate over Internet surveillance, data collection and privacy.

Those contemporary issues seem light years away from the intrigues, strategies and missions of the Cold War spies operating in post-WW2 Europe… and light years away from the technology they were using.

camera watch
“They’ll never notice!”

In an age when I can put 256 gigabytes of data on an SD card the size of the fingernail on my little finger, and the smart watch on my wrist has more computing power than the Apollo space ship, it’s really hard to get your head around covert radio transmitters the size of a suitcase and great clunky microfilm cameras concealed in watering cans!

spy museum display of watering can, fuel can & thermos
Cameras & mics concealed in everything from thermos flasks to watering cans!

And shoes! It seems that every self respecting spy had a pair of shoes with something concealed in the heel.

Concealed shoe heel compartments
Every spy had something hidden in his/her shoe!

For me the museum works best when it is covering real objects, real people and real events.

Enigma machine
Enigma machine
Post-War Crypto machine
10-rotor Crypto

They have a 3-rotor Enigma machine (which from memory was mostly used by German banks before WW2 and adopted & improved by the military into a 5-rotor machine), and two of the post-war (post-Bletchley Park) iterations, with (surprise, surprise) 10 & 25-rotors!

They have all sorts of innocent places of concealment including a Yardleys Talcum Powder tin (hands up anyone who remembers Yardleys!), all displayed in cabinets that are cleverly explained by multi-lingual (German & English) digital displays.

Many of the displays feature spies, spymasters, double-agents, and Mata Hari-style femme fatales, telling their stories in audio interviews and with archive footage. There’s also previously undisclosed, in-house made film material, interviews with contemporary witnesses like former master spies and experts from different fields of espionage.

Tale of Dieter Feuer
The human tales are fascinating

I spent ages engrossed in original footage of a spy exchange across a Berlin bridge in the 60s, and the replica of the poison pellet delivering umbrella that was used to assassinate Bulgarian dissident, Georgi Markov in London in 1978.

Where does the museum not do so well?

To be fair, it has to cater for as wide an audience as it can, so there are visitor interactions such as the password cracker – which is quite educational. Put in the password you use for your bank account and it’ll show you how long it takes to crack using state of the art computer algorithms – and there’s a Laser Light Obstacle Course. Visitors can test their athletic ‘ninja’ flexibility getting through a dark room with a net of security laser beams waiting to trigger an alarm, while outside their family or friends are watching their progress on infra-red TV monitors, cheering or jeering their progress.

But the area of least interest to me is the section on fictional spies, esp James Bond… about whom I don’t feel I have anything important to learn.

Factbox

Getting there:
Leipziger Platz 9, 10117 Berlin.

By Metro: Potsdammer Platz station (S-bahn & U-bahn) is 100 metres away.
By Foot: It’s a 10-15 min walk from the Brandenburg Gate.

Price:
Adults…. 18 Euros

Children…. Free
(Under 6)

Reduced…. 14 Euros
(Students, scholars, trainees, handicapped)

VIP-Ticket…. 27 Euros
(Fasttrack admission without queuing)

Families…. 49 Euros
(2 adults & max 3 children under 16 yrs).

Opening Hours:
Monday to Sunday, 10:00 to 20:00.
Closed on 24 Dec.

Late opening till 8.00pm is a blessing if you want to avoid queues (summer daytime). I went around 6.00pm on a March weekday and it was practically empty.

Tours:
There are public guided tours, usually hourly (subject to availability). You can join for 8 Euros (Reduced rate: 6 Euros).

Summary
Review Date
Reviewed Item
The Spy Museum, Berlin
Author Rating
41star1star1star1stargray
An intriguing collection!
An interesting museum, definitely worth a visit since you really don’t have to go far out of your way in central Berlin to find it. They have around a thousand items in their inventory, but it doesn’t feel like a huge collection on display. The high tech digital displays are good, but I experienced them in a nearly empty museum - I'm not sure how they would work on a busy day when people are queuing to use them.
EXHIBITS 68
DISPLAY 80
TECH 75
VALUE 65

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